Sunday 14 August 2016

Haarlem


I had never intended to stay only in Amsterdam but wanted to explore a little more of Holland. Haarlem is but a short and regular train journey away, so I went for it.

First a word about Amsterdam's Victorian train station. Not the easiest for getting tickets and blighted by a zillion bicycles but its still a fine edifice right on the coast. And very easy access from and to the city - its a short walk to anywhere you want to go.






Anyway, Haarlem. Yes, more canals.

 And more very pretty almshouses



 It is dominated by a medieval cathedral a big market square - you have no doubt where the centre of town is.



The cathedral is very pleasnt to wander around (for a small fee) and armed with my little guide leaflet in English I pottered around very happily for a while. They have rather strange bits of ultra-violt light if you are wondering about the purple tinge to some of the photos.























 I had to include a photo of the painter Frans Hals's grave (not least as I was really here to see his museum) even though there is not much to see and they needed to stick a sign on it so you know its there
  


One particular feature of this church is its massive organ. Mozart played on it apparently.















 Anyway, enough of the interior. I also circumnavigated the lovely square a few times, had lunch at a sushi chain restaurant (Sumo) and bought some cheese at the open air market for a slightly smelly dinner.




















Then off for a little walk down to the Frans Hals Museum. Haarlem really is a very pretty town and well worth just a little wander. Plenty of places to eat and drink that look very appealing too.



 And so to the Frans Hals Museum. Again, you cannot fault the setting for being attractively Dutch in a very Dutch way. Just look at those cute step gable cottages.




 Inside the Museum is very attractively laid out, and the at collection is excellent if you like that sort of thing. Which fortunately I do.


Now, isn't this just the gayest Hercules you have ever seen? Just something about the pose.


It is a house not just a gallery so one can admire rooms as much as just he paintings on the walls.





 Ok, so I know I am odd, but I love these big portrait canvases of austere governesses.They have so much character.






I thought this an odd image, some young boys at a life-drawing class trying to capture the likeness of a near-naked man. Modern sensibilities I guess.





And this is very odd too. Its not a painting, or at least only the background is. The foreground is all made out of layered straw. Its very effective.

An apothecaries shop interior. So much nicer than a Boots.


The courtyard is to die for. So beautiful and such an oasis.














Just on teh opposite side of the road is a museum of Haarlem as a town. Very disappointing. Not worth the diversion even when its across the street. Only thing I thought worth recording was this bit of early stained glass advertising.



So then back via the main square again (now with bluer sky) to visit the Teylers Museum.




 The Teylers Museum is a truly old fashioned science and Natural History Museum. Its almost a museum of a museum. The lady at reception slightly sniffily warned me that I had only 50 minutes to see all they had to offer, but in all honesty that was time enough. One likes the ambience as much as wanting to examine the cases of bones, fossils and mineral samples.









 This little room was fun. The minerals laid out are shown in natural and the fluorescent light.




 There rare also a couple of rooms of old fashioned at gallery with largely Victorian paintings, hung all the way up the walls.. I loved them.










 So that just left me after 5pm closing time to meander back to the station taking in a bit of the architecture on the way.



















 And finally back at Haarlem train station. A very satisfactory day trip.


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